FlatThis morning I had a fascinating chat with my B and B landlady about her experience of supporting refugees in Richmond. She had just come back from taking two Iraqi families and a Syrian family on a day trip into the Dales. This led to another interesting conversation about tackling racism and prejudice, and supporting the people who come as refugees whilst encouraging independence. It was a glimpse into her life that was very unexpected. And serendipitously I then heard that a young woman whom I taught as a little girl is walking Lands End to John O Groats this summer raising money for a refugee charity, Refugee Action. It felt good to sponsor her and wish her well. Wainwright is very scathing about the next part of the journey, ‘If you are fond of placid rural scenery and have an interest in farming, you might enjoy this section of the walk; but if your preference is for high ground and rough hills you will find it tedious.’ The whole day, across the Vale of Mowbray, has a comically small ascent of about 50 feet, and so there are no views as such. There’s also the noise of the A1 and other busy roads at times. But the gentle nature of the landscape felt a bit like home, and my hosts at the B and B were quite defensive about it, saying that there is a lot of beauty in it, even without the high hills. I think I understand what both parties mean - the day was certainly without drama, but it also contained the restrained sylvan nature typical of much of the English countryside. And a big plus was that I continued to follow the Swale, broadening and even getting a bit urban and edgy at times. My mood in the morning followed the contours of the landscape. I set off cheerfully from Richmond, even remaining cheerful when I had to back track the best part of a mile to retrieve my walking poles that I’d left at the B and B. But as I descended down the steep Richmond hill I felt lower too. There was less to divert me from feeling solitary, and today the pleasures I’ve taken from being in that state seemed to slip through my fingers. It was interesting, spending time with my emotions, and not diverting myself from them. I listened to music again, but this time it accentuated the emotions as opposed to soothing them. Maybe that was what I needed. And there was no one there to worry that I had tears on my face walking through the fields. Thanks to Tim Minchin for singing to me today. But, as has been the case for me for years, the act of walking improves everything. After a couple of hours of very easy walking on clear paths, and after passing the both ancient and current garrison town of Catterick, I took a break by the Swale for a cup of tea, feeling a lot more settled. It wasn’t quite as pastoral a scene as I’d imagined, as when I took my headphones out I realised I was still very near the noise of the main road. But that didn’t bother the water birds, and I didn’t let it bother me. I had heard of the honesty tuck shops and other resources on the path, but hadn’t seen any until today. The first was in the church at Bolton-on-Swale. The church was open, and inside were tea and coffee makings, cold drinks, seats and the use of the church toilet. All for nothing, just asking donations to church funds. It was so welcome, and lifted my spirits enormously to know that people were so kind to Coast to Coasters. As I was considering setting off again, two walkers joined me. Graham and Donna are a young and very cheerful couple from Skipton. His parents are acting as back up in a camper van, so they were happily travelling very light. We shared stories about the journey and the people we’ve met. Graham talked about how surprised he was by some who hadn’t stayed overnight in Richmond, but pressed on instead. As he so wisely pointed out - ‘why move away from Richmond early, it’s got a castle, 6 pubs and a Gregg’s, what more do you need?’ We set off together, but our routes diverged after a mile or so. Mine went north, theirs south, and I didn’t meet up with them for the rest of the day. So on my own again, but this afternoon it felt fine. I even brought out a few new dance moves, this time to ‘Shut up and Dance’. The extra and very special choreographic addition was the use of my poles in a rather classy Fred Astaire pastiche. Later in the afternoon ‘Build me up Buttercup’ was also brought alive through the medium of my fancy footwork. I can see a change in creative career ahead. I am no geographic or nature expert, and I don’t know if this area of the country is normally a bit further ahead of the west in terms of the seasons, (maybe it’s because it’s less rugged and flatter?) but I’ve noticed many more signs of the countryside turning to later summer today. Where earlier on the trip the blackberries were just in flower, now they are fruiting. The crop is turning gold, and the peas are ripening too. However the frisky behaviour of the white butterflies that accompanied me for a few miles was more springlike…. Including the extra mile at the beginning, this has been one of the longest mileages of the path. But because it was such easy walking, I got to the little village of Danby Wiske with plenty of time before I was allowed to check in. This has been an issue throughout, if the walk doesn’t take as long as the interval between the end of breakfast and check in time, then there can be quite a bit of hanging about. Not a problem if the weather is dry like today, but much more difficult if it’s raining. But today I had the benefit of another honesty tuck shop, near the church in the village, to occupy me before my B and B allowed me to check in. Following the sign, I confidently opened the door of the hall where I assumed the shop would be. Fortunately I noticed in time that in fact it was a yoga class. I reversed away before I upset their chakras. The Bakewell tart at the correct location was fantastic, one of a huge array of cakes, biscuits, ice creams and other goods, all supplied on an honesty basis, and all at extremely reasonable suggested prices. The lovely owner of the campsite who organises it later told me that she thought anyone doing the walk were so amazing that she wanted to support us without ripping us off. So she bakes two types of cake every day for people like me to enjoy. An unusual evening. The very friendly B and B landlady had to unexpectedly cook for me, as the only pub in the village is now not serving food for the next ten days. She informed me that she wasn’t very sure how the oven worked, but she’d give it a shot…. In the end the meal was perfectly nice, but she then went out for a big night with the girls, leaving me to do the washing up.
Stats Distance: 16 miles Ascent: 52 feet Calories burned: 1900 Number of horses in fields that I have happily passed thanks to my pre walk training on horse confidence: 6 Number of dance agents who have been in touch to talk about my new career: a surprising zero. There’s still time. Hearty post walk meal with local tipple: baked salmon with new potatoes and veg. And tap water. Which is local, I guess. Video of the day: https://www.relive.cc/view/vKv2yR9Wx4q
3 Comments
Flo
3/8/2021 18:12:42
Love the pictures!!
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Jane
3/8/2021 21:05:07
Thanks Flo! X
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Carly
4/8/2021 20:59:18
Delighted that you have found your inner Darcey!
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